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Av8rgirl
06-10-2008, 09:43 AM
Gaillardia can be divided. There are about 30 different species of annuals and perennials.

Rudbeckia and Coreopsis are in the same family - Asteraceae. So they are related!

The problem with using "common names" for plants is that common names are different throughout the country. That's why using the botanical name is less confusing. ;) But not everyone knows the botanical name. I try to use both when describing a plant.

Rudbeckia has several different common names: Black eyed susan, orange coneflower, and cutleaf coneflower. One of it's true botantical names is Rudbeckia hirta which is the the black-eyed susan, the most common Rudbeckia. There are several cultivars of this particular species: Irish Eyes, Marmalade, Becky Mixed.

Coreopsis has a large species of over 80 different annuals and perennials. The common name is Tickseed or Coreopsis.

Echinacea purpurea is purple coneflower. It used to be called Rudbeckia purpurea but the name was changed at one of the Horticulture Congresses where they change the Genus of plants. That could account for the confusion. They are closely related to the Rudbeckias.




mrsD
06-10-2008, 10:12 AM
My husband and I were just talking about this subject.

He is totally flummoxed by drug names. Each drug has a generic name and a Brand name. People in general gravitate to
identifying and communicating with one or the other.

For example--Tylenol is acetaminophen. So when I ask him to get me a "Tylenol" when he is upstairs, he looks at the bottle and sees acetaminophen and gets totally confused (it is a generic bottle). He is very resistant to learning these names, and we have constant issues over it.

I can handle the drug names (I HAVE to). But I gravitate to the easy name when I am not at work. I can also do many plants that way...Rudbeckia/black-eyed Susans etc.

But where BOTH of us converge is with ROCKS/geology!

I just bought a rock book to take up north, to help ID some of the nice ones I have found there and put in my rock garden. We live on a privately owned family island...there are millions
of ROCKS...
EVERY single rock has a really NEW name.... and I can't for the life of me remember them. They all have -----ITE on the end of their names.
examples...Andesite, spilite,Syenite, pyroxenite, serpentinite, norite, dolerite, etc etc! :yikes:

This is a rather small book with very large pictures! I thought I could handle it...but NOPE...it puts me to sleep literally after 10 or so pages, and I don't recall the names the next day!
My husband took geology in college, and he had the same problem! So we have both hit a wall, when it comes to rock names! LOLOLOL

I've only learned a few of the Latin names of my plants. I certainly don't know the majority.

Av8rgirl
06-10-2008, 01:36 PM
Geology stumped me in college as well until the lab class. Fortunately I had a very good instructor who loved hands on field trips! I took Geology of Nevada and then again in Idaho! It helped me with Botany as well as plant ID, not sure why but it certainly helped connect all the dots! Maybe it's because certain plants grow with certain rocks/terrain! Now I use rocks/boulders in my landscape plans and they are just big rocks! Some things I choose to retain, some things I don't (I think they leak out of these holes I have in my brain!) :eek:

I certainly understand the frustration with generic/brand names in your world MrsD. It can get very confusing -- good example - Provigil. Why the heck does it have to be called one thing in the US and something else in Canada??? I digress, as usual. :rolleyes:

I do very well with botanical names of plants. It's the common names that get me into trouble. Sort of like a local dialect.

I was required to learn the botanical names otherwise I would not have gotten through school! Each week for two years we had a plant ID test and on this test was 50 plants and we had 4 classes - perennials, annuals, shrubs, and trees. We had to know the family, genus, species, and cultivar (if there was one). They had to be spelled correctly and written correctly (italics as required and quotes as required). Made for a lot of memorization...my poor little MS brain with holes struggled some weeks. :(

I used to draw pictures on my test paper of my brain with holes and my arm with the IV in it and hope my instructor would be kind! :rolleyes:

Good luck with the rock identification! Maybe you can join a local rockhound club and get some help that way! I know my dad belonged to one and that's how he came to be very knowledgeable about rocks! ;)

braingonebad
06-10-2008, 02:08 PM
The only rocks I know are the kind in jewelry. I'm pretty good with those.

:D

I'm starting to learn the botanical names of plants simply because - after some 20 yrs, sheesh - I have so many plants some are the same family but diff members. Like 4 campanulas. Botanical is the easier way to keep them straight.

Speaking of those, I finally snagged Canterbury bells, Campanula medium. :)

It's supposed to get what, over 2' tall. It's about 3 inches and blooming. Now that's funny.

The flowers are big as the plant.

lor
06-10-2008, 04:48 PM
I have an fuschia in a hanging basket & I read to pluck off the dead flowers. Immediatly behind the flower is a little thicker part to that stem. Am I supposed to take that off too? I think I read that you are supposed to take it off or some of the plant's energy will go to making berries or something, instead of flowers? Can you tell me what is right? Thanks

Av8rgirl
06-10-2008, 05:02 PM
Dead head or pinch them all the way back to the leaf axial being careful not to pinch off any new buds that may be forming.

braingonebad
06-13-2008, 09:56 PM
Okay, a couple cool tips to share...

Tie a few sprigs of fresh lavandar into a bundle, and place in your clean birdbath water. It won't clean it if the water is already growing algea, but it will keep it from getting funky. Replace the bundle weekly.

Pick up a cheap carbine at the dollar store, then punch a hole at the top of your garden gloves. You can clip your gloves together and hang them from your belt or a loop on your jeans, even a bucket handle (I carry a bucket for tools and weeds). Keeps gloves paired and handy.

Plastic coffee can, 3 in One oil, and paper towels. Put the oil and separated paper towels in the coffee can. Way easy to clean/lube your garden tools with cheap home-made wipes.

Av8rgirl
06-14-2008, 04:14 AM
If you are getting ready to plant your patio pots or hanging baskets, don't forget the fertilizer. A good time released fertlizer is osmocote. It lasts about 3 months. Just mix a small about (read the label for specific amounts) in with the soil in the pot and your plants will be happy and thrive.

I also add a table spoon of miracle grow fertlizer to a gallon of water each time I water my hanging baskets or patio pots simply because a lot of the water leaches out and you lose a lot of nutrients.

Don't forget to dead head your plants to keep the blooming all summer long!

Twinkletoes
06-16-2008, 07:15 AM
What is that fabulous smell outside early this morning?

Nope, it's not dryer sheets from the neighbor's laundry. ;)

I thought maybe it was the Russian Olive trees up the canyon a bit, which also have a wonderful aroma in June. But I usually notice them in the evenings.

This is a different fragrance. The lilac and snowball blossoms are dead, so they're not in the running. The beautiful flowering crabapples are history. Can't figure out what it might be.

I don't normally get up before dawn, so asked my DH if it always smelled so good. He doesn't have that great of a smeller, but said, "No."

Maybe a conglomeration? Once it started getting light, the grass smell took over. Wish I could capture it in a bottle and save it!

mrsD
06-16-2008, 07:21 AM
This is a cultivar from Europe that has escaped, and is mostly
wild now. But I have some, and typically its fragrance is strongest in the morning and evening.

Or your neighbors have some Nicotiana? This flowering tobacco is lovely too.

Av8rgirl
06-16-2008, 06:43 PM
Cottonwood Trees, Twink. ;) It's that time of year around here!

mrsD
06-16-2008, 06:45 PM
already set seed, and messed our screens.

We are in Zone 5.

Curious
06-16-2008, 06:50 PM
already set seed, and messed our screens.

We are in Zone 5.

blech. we get it so bad it looks like it's snowing.

luckily we don't have many near where we live. at the club, there are time you have have to turn on your wipers when driving by. :eek:

we call them trash trees. :wink:

braingonebad
06-16-2008, 08:11 PM
blech. we get it so bad it looks like it's snowing.

luckily we don't have many near where we live. at the club, there are time you have have to turn on your wipers when driving by. :eek:

we call them trash trees. :wink:


Yeah they're really bad here too. They plug up the pool filters something fierce. If I don't keep on it they'd probably burn the motor up.

Av8rgirl
06-16-2008, 08:28 PM
Just getting started here cuz we had such a late spring, so wet. It took me a couple of years to figure out what that sweet smell was. I used to think it was the Russian Olive trees too till I finally asked. It's the Cottonwood trees.

It'll be snowing cotton around here in the next week.

We are in Zone 5 too, but at 3500' so the elevation does make a difference.

Twinkletoes
06-16-2008, 09:52 PM
The cottonwoods! Of course!

That would explain why the fragrance is stronger at my Dad's place. He is surrounded by them. I haven't hardly seen any cotton yet, but *inhales deeply* the aroma is close to intoxicating.

Thanks, Cheryl! You are my green-thumbed hero!



Trash trees? Maybe so, but Utah is such a desert that we'll take any volunteer foliage we can get! :wink:


Now I can't help but wonder why cottonwoods smell so great in the spring, but smell so funky when you burn the wood. :confused:

JessieSue
06-24-2008, 08:26 PM
I'm looking for a flowering bush/shrub that will do well in full sun and does not need much pruning/shaping. The people that lived here before have lots of those evergreen hedges/bushes that you constantly have to prune/flattop so they stay in their perfect square shape. I can't do that kind of maintenance. What else would work and be attractive? Just to put on either side of a birdbath next to my shed.

braingonebad
06-25-2008, 09:09 AM
I'm looking for a flowering bush/shrub that will do well in full sun and does not need much pruning/shaping. The people that lived here before have lots of those evergreen hedges/bushes that you constantly have to prune/flattop so they stay in their perfect square shape. I can't do that kind of maintenance. What else would work and be attractive? Just to put on either side of a birdbath next to my shed.

How tall/wide would you prefer? Some get bigger than others.

For evergreens - nonflowering - that don't have to be pruned, go with arborvitae. Not needing pruning is good, but I also love them because they have soft, touchable greens. Not pokey. They keep a pretty, natural shape and come in many profiles - globe, carpet, pyramid are some I'm familiar with.

They can (DO, lol) out grow spaces and eventually may need to be removed, but that generally takes many years and is well worth the not needing all those clippings over their lifetimes. And when they do need to be chopped down, it's not that hard - we took out four this year.

For blooming shrubs, most need some kind of prune but not like those square shrubs you're talking about. Gosh I hate that square shrub thing.

:p

Av8rgirl
06-25-2008, 11:17 AM
I'm looking for a flowering bush/shrub that will do well in full sun and does not need much pruning/shaping. The people that lived here before have lots of those evergreen hedges/bushes that you constantly have to prune/flattop so they stay in their perfect square shape. I can't do that kind of maintenance. What else would work and be attractive? Just to put on either side of a birdbath next to my shed.

Potentilla. It comes in several different colors - yellow, reddish, tangerine, white. It needs no pruning, drought tolerant, has a nice shape, nice flower, and you can prune it once a year if you want to keep it from getting too "woody." It handles full sun very well as well as partial sun, partial shade.
http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:GdZ4-rDXWmwJ::www.everscapes.com/images/plantings_potentilla.jpg (http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.everscapes.com/images/plantings_potentilla.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.everscapes.com/plantings.htm&h=598&w=717&sz=559&tbnid=GdZ4-rDXWmwJ::&tbnh=117&tbnw=140&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dpotentilla&sa=X&oi=image_result&resnum=3&ct=image&cd=1)http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:8foru6vU4IyQGM:http://www.beautifulbotany.com/STOCK%2520N-Q/Potentilla%2520fruticosa%2520%27Princess%27.jpg (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.beautifulbotany.com/STOCK%2520N-Q/Potentilla%2520fruticosa%2520%27Princess%27.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.beautifulbotany.com/Stock%2520N-Q.htm&h=294&w=450&sz=23&hl=en&start=58&um=1&tbnid=8foru6vU4IyQGM:&tbnh=83&tbnw=127&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dpotentilla%26start%3D40%26ndsp%3D20%2 6um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN)http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:ZWRYyJrEBFCiOM:http://www.prideofplaceplants.com/plants/potentilla_marion_red.jpg (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.prideofplaceplants.com/plants/potentilla_marion_red.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.prideofplaceplants.com/flowering_shrubs/potentilla_marion_red.html&h=482&w=500&sz=107&hl=en&start=6&um=1&tbnid=ZWRYyJrEBFCiOM:&tbnh=125&tbnw=130&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dpotentilla%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26clien t%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN)

http://www.monrovia.com/learn/plant_catalog/search.php?search_term=potentilla&x=258&y=297&search_term_add=

Here's Monrovia's website page on Potentiila for information about the plant. It's very versatile! And it's usually very cheap! If you go for the yellow, Goldfinger is the best one!

JessieSue
06-25-2008, 10:29 PM
How tall/wide would you prefer? Some get bigger than others.

For evergreens - nonflowering - that don't have to be pruned, go with arborvitae. Not needing pruning is good, but I also love them because they have soft, touchable greens. Not pokey. They keep a pretty, natural shape and come in many profiles - globe, carpet, pyramid are some I'm familiar with.

They can (DO, lol) out grow spaces and eventually may need to be removed, but that generally takes many years and is well worth the not needing all those clippings over their lifetimes. And when they do need to be chopped down, it's not that hard - we took out four this year.

For blooming shrubs, most need some kind of prune but not like those square shrubs you're talking about. Gosh I hate that square shrub thing.

:p
Thank you so much Brain! My neighbors are all over 65 and they all have those perfect square shrubs! I swear, I'm in the Land of Makebelieve and I'm gonna see Mr. McFeely walking up our street delivering our mail! LOL

Potentilla. It comes in several different colors - yellow, reddish, tangerine, white. It needs no pruning, drought tolerant, has a nice shape, nice flower, and you can prune it once a year if you want to keep it from getting too "woody." It handles full sun very well as well as partial sun, partial shade.
http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:GdZ4-rDXWmwJ::www.everscapes.com/images/plantings_potentilla.jpg (http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.everscapes.com/images/plantings_potentilla.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.everscapes.com/plantings.htm&h=598&w=717&sz=559&tbnid=GdZ4-rDXWmwJ::&tbnh=117&tbnw=140&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dpotentilla&sa=X&oi=image_result&resnum=3&ct=image&cd=1)http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:8foru6vU4IyQGM:http://www.beautifulbotany.com/STOCK%2520N-Q/Potentilla%2520fruticosa%2520%27Princess%27.jpg (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.beautifulbotany.com/STOCK%2520N-Q/Potentilla%2520fruticosa%2520%27Princess%27.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.beautifulbotany.com/Stock%2520N-Q.htm&h=294&w=450&sz=23&hl=en&start=58&um=1&tbnid=8foru6vU4IyQGM:&tbnh=83&tbnw=127&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dpotentilla%26start%3D40%26ndsp%3D20%2 6um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN)http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:ZWRYyJrEBFCiOM:http://www.prideofplaceplants.com/plants/potentilla_marion_red.jpg (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.prideofplaceplants.com/plants/potentilla_marion_red.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.prideofplaceplants.com/flowering_shrubs/potentilla_marion_red.html&h=482&w=500&sz=107&hl=en&start=6&um=1&tbnid=ZWRYyJrEBFCiOM:&tbnh=125&tbnw=130&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dpotentilla%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26clien t%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN)

http://www.monrovia.com/learn/plant_catalog/search.php?search_term=potentilla&x=258&y=297&search_term_add=

Here's Monrovia's website page on Potentiila for information about the plant. It's very versatile! And it's usually very cheap! If you go for the yellow, Goldfinger is the best one!
Awesome Cheryl! Thank You! I never even heard of those!:)

braingonebad
06-28-2008, 08:12 PM
LOL Jessie!


A guy in our town HAS that trolley!!!!!



When I see it I tell DD "Look here comes King Friday!"


:ROTFLMAO::ROTFLMAO::ROTFLMAO:


Cheryl - thanks! I see those everywhere, now I know what they are. The tangerine is soooo pretty.

JessieSue
06-29-2008, 01:28 AM
OMG!!! Yes!!! King Friday!!! Thank You! I couldn't think of his name!! LOL

braingonebad
07-09-2008, 06:51 AM
Last year I bought a puple passion at a flea market for $1. It's blooming. I never had one before. Didn't know they could bloom. Not great flowers, but hey, cool that it has flowers.

I'll try to get a pic and post it. You won't believe how big this thing got in a year. I was impressed it lived at all, lol.

:p

JessieSue
07-09-2008, 11:47 AM
What about the burning bush. I guess they are green through spring and summer and a beautiful red in fall. Are they hearty and low maintenance? Can they be planted now or do I need to wait until spring or fall?

braingonebad
07-15-2008, 07:12 AM
Is everyone else getting invaded with japanese beetles? UGH!!!!!

Av8rgirl
07-17-2008, 04:39 PM
Idaho is having a huge problem with Mormon Crickets again this year. They are killing crops and causing all kinds of damage.

hollym
07-18-2008, 09:02 AM
I just wanted to report back about my newspaper / mulch combo for weed control experiment. I put a good layer of newspaper and then covered it up with about an inch or two of mulch and I am happy to report that it has been over a month and I think I have plucked maybe a handful of weed out of that bed. I am going to continue to do this for all of my beds.

I didn't notice any smell other than the smell of the mulch, either. So, it's all good in my opinion.

Av8rgirl
07-20-2008, 10:25 PM
What about the burning bush. I guess they are green through spring and summer and a beautiful red in fall. Are they hearty and low maintenance? Can they be planted now or do I need to wait until spring or fall?

You can plant them anytime. They do need pruning to maintain size otherwise they get huge. They are cold hardy and considered drought tolerant. Low maintenance? Pruning, fertilize, and watch for black vine weevil.

They are pretty in the fall with the bright red color.

hollym
07-21-2008, 07:58 AM
How about the best time to transplant a large butterfly bush? I have one that has gotten too big for it's home and need to move it.

Av8rgirl
07-21-2008, 06:25 PM
How about the best time to transplant a large butterfly bush? I have one that has gotten too big for it's home and need to move it.

Holly

No need to move it...prune it. They handle annual pruning very well. In fact, the more you prune them, the happier they are. Prune them right down to about 3 inches above the ground each year. I am serious about that. They grown 5-6 feet a year. I have 4 of them in my yard and that's exactly how I prune them every spring. They are too woody and the roots are too big to transplant. If you like it where it is, then just prune it.

In fact, if it is done blooming, go ahead and whack it back right now about 2/3rds. It won't hurt it at all. It will bloom again.

hollym
07-22-2008, 08:15 AM
Holly

No need to move it...prune it. They handle annual pruning very well. In fact, the more you prune them, the happier they are. Prune them right down to about 3 inches above the ground each year. I am serious about that. They grown 5-6 feet a year. I have 4 of them in my yard and that's exactly how I prune them every spring. They are too woody and the roots are too big to transplant. If you like it where it is, then just prune it.

In fact, if it is done blooming, go ahead and whack it back right now about 2/3rds. It won't hurt it at all. It will bloom again.


It's still blooming - in fact it really just started to bloom. So, I don't want to hack it right now.

I do prune it way down every year, but it is still too big for this location and it hasn't been there very long (only about 2 years). So, I would like to just relocate it to a place where it won't be in my way backing out of the driveway all summer long!:eek:

Av8rgirl
07-22-2008, 08:34 AM
It's still blooming - in fact it really just started to bloom. So, I don't want to hack it right now.

I do prune it way down every year, but it is still too big for this location and it hasn't been there very long (only about 2 years). So, I would like to just relocate it to a place where it won't be in my way backing out of the driveway all summer long!:eek:

It can be transplanted and will do fine. Wait til it is dormant in the fall, prune it, water the root ball good so it is easier to dig out, dig around the root ball about 3 feet in diameter and about 2 feet deep. Have the hole dug where you want to transplant it, and relocate the plant. Water it in good making sure there are no air holes in the new hole, compact down the new soil and it should do fine next season. Make sure you add some fertilizer or root stimulator in the new location for winter food.

JustWeave
07-28-2008, 09:57 PM
I used to grow modern tomatoes in clean spackle buckets with drainage holes drilled in the bottom. Last year DH created a veggie garden for me complete with lots of organic food for the garden. I planted heirloom tomatoes and they loved their new home. This year the garden got fenced and so far that is working beautifully. (Thanks DH!:heartthrob:)

I've planted heirloom tomatoes again and once again they are quite happy. The problem is staking the huge beasts! I use a collapsible wire support that opens up to a triangle. Unfortunately the plants get so big they don't stay corralled in their area of the garden. I have two plants in opposite corners of a five foot square. There has to be a way to support these mammoth plants but I don't know how. Any help would be appreciated.

Is there a way to keep the plants more manageable size wise without reducing food production? I think I read somewhere that I am supposed to pinch off the little sprout that emerges between the main stem and the leaf stem. Does that make sense? :confused:

Thanks for your help.

Av8rgirl
07-28-2008, 10:15 PM
I used to grow modern tomatoes in clean spackle buckets with drainage holes drilled in the bottom. Last year DH created a veggie garden for me complete with lots of organic food for the garden. I planted heirloom tomatoes and they loved their new home. This year the garden got fenced and so far that is working beautifully. (Thanks DH!:heartthrob:)

I've planted heirloom tomatoes again and once again they are quite happy. The problem is staking the huge beasts! I use a collapsible wire support that opens up to a triangle. Unfortunately the plants get so big they don't stay corralled in their area of the garden. I have two plants in opposite corners of a five foot square. There has to be a way to support these mammoth plants but I don't know how. Any help would be appreciated.

Is there a way to keep the plants more manageable size wise without reducing food production? I think I read somewhere that I am supposed to pinch off the little sprout that emerges between the main stem and the leaf stem. Does that make sense? :confused:

Thanks for your help.

Rather than try to explain it, here's a good website complete with pictures and even a video!

http://www.taunton.com/finegardening/how-to/articles/pruning-tomatoes.aspx

Here's one more with some information about Heirloom Tomatoes

http://www.growing-tomato.com/Growing_Heirloom_Tomatoes.html

Tomatoes are tricky. You have to keep them off the ground to keep them disease free and bug free. But if the plants get so fruit heavy, it's hard to do. I think both of these websites have some great tips for you!

Alffe
07-29-2008, 08:02 AM
I have a couple of questions. I have a big Rose of Sharon bush in my barnyard that hasn't really bloomed in years. It gets lots of buds but they don't open! What is it trying to tell me? :o

and I mistakenly have planted some kind of pepper in my herb garden...yellow and about two inches long so far...what kind of pepper is it and how do I cook it? Thanks!

JustWeave
07-29-2008, 08:53 AM
Thanks Flygirl! I didn't read the second link yet but the first one says I did everything wrong. :o :Bang-Head: Live and learn for next year I guess. :rolleyes:

Av8rgirl
07-29-2008, 11:52 PM
I have a couple of questions. I have a big Rose of Sharon bush in my barnyard that hasn't really bloomed in years. It gets lots of buds but they don't open! What is it trying to tell me? :o

and I mistakenly have planted some kind of pepper in my herb garden...yellow and about two inches long so far...what kind of pepper is it and how do I cook it? Thanks!

Most flowering shrubs need high Phosphorous fertilizer for blooming. You commented that the Rose of Sharon is in your barnyard so I am going to make an assumption here that it is getting some type of manure from the barnyard in the soil which tends to be high in nitrogen. This could be the reason why the Rose of Sharon is not blooming. Too much nitrogen.

You need to balance out the soil by adding phosphorous to the soil and pruning the shrub back this fall by maybe a third. This should revitalize it and maybe it will bloom for you next year.

As for the pepper plant, long yellow peppers are usually some type of chili pepper, could be sweet or could be hot. I'd split it, remove the seeds, saute it with some onions and butter and serve it with a tortilla!

Alffe
07-30-2008, 04:43 AM
Sounds delicious! Thank you. :D

There have been no animals in that barnyard for at least 45 yrs. but who knows about soil holding on to it's "properties". Off to the feedstore today...thanks again! :hug:

braingonebad
07-30-2008, 08:20 AM
Thanks Flygirl! I didn't read the second link yet but the first one says I did everything wrong. :o :Bang-Head: Live and learn for next year I guess. :rolleyes:


It's probablt not too late to rectify the problem. Prune a little, add some longer stakes for support.


Tomato plants are really resiliant.

I should talk... my garden is a total wreck. I don't have plants so much as a monster wall of tomato. All the plants from years gone by dropped seed and sprouted. I dug some up, but didn't get them all.

:eek:

Oh well, they taste good.

The cukes are doing great though. We planted them to grow up a 6' wire mesh trellis - good idea. They're *burpless* and yow are they huge and tasty! Producing real nice and no problems.

JustWeave
07-30-2008, 08:38 AM
It's probablt not too late to rectify the problem. Prune a little, add some longer stakes for support.

I think too I am pretty well sunk as I staked them only days ago. All of them are producing flowers and fruit. Nothing is ripe yet nor will it be for a while. Ah well. Live. Learn. Do better next year.

hollym
07-30-2008, 08:45 AM
and I mistakenly have planted some kind of pepper in my herb garden...yellow and about two inches long so far...what kind of pepper is it and how do I cook it? Thanks!

Sounds like it could be a hot banana pepper to me. I grow those, too. We cut them in half lengthwise and scrape the seeds out (using gloves to not get the painful stuff on the skin) and then stuff them with a mixture of ground sausage, breadcrumbs, tomato sauce and an egg and then cover them in sauce and mozzerella chesse and bake until they are done. Yummy!

Av8rgirl
07-30-2008, 08:47 AM
Sounds delicious! Thank you. :D

There have been no animals in that barnyard for at least 45 yrs. but who knows about soil holding on to it's "properties". Off to the feedstore today...thanks again! :hug:

You are welcome. I hope your Rose of Sharon blooms. Mine is just starting and it is loaded! It's a Red Heart cultivar and is about 6' tall and maybe 8' wide. This year it gets a good pruning. It's located on the south west corner of my house in the bed up against the house so it gets a lot of direct afternoon sun as well as reflected sun from the house. It loves its location!

JustWeave
07-30-2008, 12:45 PM
I warned ya in the spring I had a ton of questions. Here are the next two.

I planted a Red Twig Dogwood last year and it is a little too happy where it is. When can I move it?

When is the best time to move peonies? Actually what do I do with them after I dig them up? I'm asking because these are old peonies. They come up ever year but don't always bloom well. They are more shaded now than when we moved here and I want to move them to a sunnier location I can enjoy.

Need to take pen and paper on my next garden tour and hit you with the rest of my questions.

Av8rgirl
07-30-2008, 05:07 PM
I warned ya in the spring I had a ton of questions. Here are the next two.

I planted a Red Twig Dogwood last year and it is a little to happy where it is. When can I move it?

If you like where this is, just prune it each year in the early spring or late fall. It handles heavy pruning very well. Otherwise, wait til it is dormant, early spring before it starts to leaf out.

When is the best time to move peonies? Actually what do I do with them after I dig them up? I'm asking because these are old peonies. They come up ever year but don't always bloom well. They are more shaded now than when we moved here and I want to move them to a sunnier location I can enjoy.after they have finished blooming and the leaves start dying back, around September/first of October is the best time. They probably need to be divided and replanted. They aren't blooming well because they are too large and do need more sun. That's what happens and they probably haven't had any fertilizer (?). Cut off the leaves down to the ground, dig them up and divide them (I gave you a link for that process), toss what you don't want.

http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/1996/8-23-1996/transpeony.html


Just post any more questions when you are ready!

JustWeave
07-30-2008, 10:25 PM
Thanks Flygirl. I like and don't like where the Red Twig Dogwood currently is. DH doesn't like the current location at all. Much as I don't want to do it I'll move it even though I won't see it as much from inside. Red against a blanket of winter carp, I mean white, was the whole reason for getting that plant and putting it where I did. :(

I thought Fall was the best time to move peonies. I've never fertilized them. I might baby things a bit the year I plant them but that is all. The only thing allowed in my yard that that must be trimmed more than once a year is the lawn. The hotter it gets the less I want to play gardener. Plant and enjoy is all I really want to do.

JustWeave
07-31-2008, 10:55 AM
Decided a garden walk would be more fun than writing out a to do list so off I went. :D

Is fall peony moving time also the best time to move hostas, ferns, lamb's ears, and artemesia? Do I cut back the lamb's ears when I divide/ relocate them?

I have several holly bushes with major leaf drop. What caused the leaves to drop? They are large bushes and produce berries but look so sad with leaves at just the ends of the branches. Can I cut them back? If I do I'll be cutting off all the leaves. I have several varieties of hollies and think the problem ones are my Blue Prince and Blue Princess ones.

I also have some major leaf drop on my hybrid tea roses. The leaves get dark spots on them then turn yellow and fall off. What do I do with them next year?

Something is digging one inch holes in my south facing bed, putting mounds of dirt on top of my mulch. :mad: Am I looking at several snake holes or something else? Snakes terrify me and I know they are around.:eek: And if they were as afraid of me as I am of them I would never ever see one.

That same bed is also infested with a bug I wish I could identify and get rid of. It is about 2.5 -3 inches long, black or dark body with three yellow stripes across the back or maybe rings around its body, and reddish brown wings. It burrows into the ground (not the one inch holes) and tends to fly less than two feet off the ground. They do not bite or sting. At least they haven't yet and we've had them for years now. What are they and how do I get rid of them?

How can I get rid of Box Elder bugs?

Okay I have more questions but your head is probably spinning from these so I'll wait. I need to do a bit of homework myself first anyway. Can't remember the plant names.

Av8rgirl
07-31-2008, 06:35 PM
Decided a garden walk would be more fun than writing out a to do list so off I went. :D

Is fall peony moving time also the best time to move hostas, ferns, lamb's ears, and artemesia? Do I cut back the lamb's ears when I divide/ relocate them?

Yes. Move them before you cut them back so you know where they are. Artemisia can be cut back anytime it gets too leggy.

I have several holly bushes with major leaf drop. What caused the leaves to drop? They are large bushes and produce berries but look so sad with leaves at just the ends of the branches. Can I cut them back? If I do I'll be cutting off all the leaves. I have several varieties of hollies and think the problem ones are my Blue Prince and Blue Princess ones. There are several reasons why they are losing their leaves. Scale, root rot, red spider mite, or too wet, or they are too close together and not getting enough air circulation.

Prune them. Put a white piece of paper under one of the branches and shake it. If the paper is covered with little tiny red dots, then you have red spider mites. If there is sticky "dew" on the branches, then you have scale. If the leaves look like they've been chewed on the edges, then you might have root rot or some other pest. Or if the leaves are yellowy and have holes in them, that can be blight or leaf miner. These are treatable with horticultural soap and cut down on the watering. Too much water.



I also have some major leaf drop on my hybrid tea roses. The leaves get dark spots on them then turn yellow and fall off. What do I do with them next year? Roses don't like to be watered overhead. Black spot. And they don't like to be watered during the heat of the day. That's what's causing the dark spots and the leaves to drop.

It could also be cane borer. Cut off one of the canes and see if it's hollow. If it is, then put a systemic insecticide around the base of the roses and water it in good.

It could also just be heat stress.

http://www.gardenguides.com/how-to/tipstechniques/flowers/roses/yellowleaves1.asp



Something is digging one inch holes in my south facing bed, putting mounds of dirt on top of my mulch. :mad: Am I looking at several snake holes or something else? Snakes terrify me and I know they are around.:eek: And if they were as afraid of me as I am of them I would never ever see one.

That same bed is also infested with a bug I wish I could identify and get rid of. It is about 2.5 -3 inches long, black or dark body with three yellow stripes across the back or maybe rings around its body, and reddish brown wings. It burrows into the ground (not the one inch holes) and tends to fly less than two feet off the ground. They do not bite or sting. At least they haven't yet and we've had them for years now. What are they and how do I get rid of them?It could be a ladybug. There are yellow ones. But I don't know.

As for the other critter that's digging the one inch hole in your garden bed, could be a shrew. Go to your local nursery or garden center and ask for something to put down the hole to get ride of them.



How can I get rid of Box Elder bugs?http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG0998.html

Okay I have more questions but your head is probably spinning from these so I'll wait. I need to do a bit of homework myself first anyway. Can't remember the plant names. Take pictures of things and post them. That's just as easy than trying to remember plant names. If you see that yellow and black bug, take a picture of it. I have a huge book of bugs. I can take a look and see if it's in there.

JustWeave
08-01-2008, 11:04 AM
Oh boy! Lots to read and look at. Will do just that when I have more time. I scanned the info and will say the roses and hollies get watered when it rains and that is it. :o Thanks!

DAY1
08-01-2008, 03:43 PM
Does anyone know when you pick pears?

My tree is loaded down. I have never had a pear tree before, so I'm not sure when to pick them. They are still green, so I know they are not ready.
I'm just not sure how long till time to pick them.

I'm praying it's a month at least.
I've put up peas and corn. Did Rotel tomatoes Tuesday. I still have blueberries and blackberries I have to make jelly out of and more tomatoes sitting on the bar in the kitchen. I froze the berries so I would have time to do the peas, but still have to get the jellies made.

I'm losing steam quickly. So I'm hoping it will be a while before I have to worry about the pears.

Does anyone know when to pick them?

Thanks
DAY

Av8rgirl
08-01-2008, 07:48 PM
Does anyone know when you pick pears?

My tree is loaded down. I have never had a pear tree before, so I'm not sure when to pick them. They are still green, so I know they are not ready.
I'm just not sure how long till time to pick them.

I'm praying it's a month at least.
I've put up peas and corn. Did Rotel tomatoes Tuesday. I still have blueberries and blackberries I have to make jelly out of and more tomatoes sitting on the bar in the kitchen. I froze the berries so I would have time to do the peas, but still have to get the jellies made.

I'm losing steam quickly. So I'm hoping it will be a while before I have to worry about the pears.

Does anyone know when to pick them?

Thanks
DAY

Pears are a lot llke peaches, when they are easily plucked from the branches they are ripe. I have found that they are best picked late August and are best picked slightly unripe and ripened off the tree in a cool dark place.

Here's a good website with some good information about pears.

http://www.pickyourown.org/pearpickingtips.htm

ewizabeth
08-01-2008, 10:05 PM
Hey garden gals,

What's the best and easiest way to remove sod? I have a lot of area I want to convert to flower and shrub beds.

I called a rental place today about a sod remover machine and they didn't call back (they had an ans machine).

I read somewhere about covering it with black plastic to kill the grass. How would that work? And how long would it take?

Also, what to do with the sod once it's removed?

Cheryl, I wish you were closer to me. You could send your crew and have it done in no time, lol.

braingonebad
08-02-2008, 03:54 AM
Hey garden gals,

What's the best and easiest way to remove sod? I have a lot of area I want to convert to flower and shrub beds.

I called a rental place today about a sod remover machine and they didn't call back (they had an ans machine).

I read somewhere about covering it with black plastic to kill the grass. How would that work? And how long would it take?

Also, what to do with the sod once it's removed?

Cheryl, I wish you were closer to me. You could send your crew and have it done in no time, lol.


It should take a couple weeks to thoroughly kill off the grass and roots with plastic. Worth the wait, in MHO.

After that, depending on the size of the area, you could just dig it up to loosen the soil, or use a rototiller. I'd add some top soil too, so it's lighter and more hospitable to flowers.

For an instant flower bed, I have just put a heavy layer of newspapers down over the grass, dumped about 6" of dirt on top and planted right in that. The paper kills off the grass and both decompose.

Av8rgirl
08-02-2008, 09:51 AM
Or you could spray it with Kleen or Round Up and rototill the area. Again, it would depend on the area. When you till the area, you are loosening up the soil for replanting, and you can also remove and roots from the grass. Time consuming. It will take about 7 days for the grass to die, but you can't use the herbicide if it's too hot. Read the label.

I would rent a sod cutter to get rid of it. I am sure there is more than one rental place. We have several of them around here and we are a much smaller town than you are. Look for equipment rental. Our local compant is called Tates Rents, who knows they may be national for all I know. Any other way, you are going to have roots left and continually fight off grass coming back.

The sod cutter will cut down about 2" and it's fairly easy to use. You cut the strips in easy to manage pieces, roll them up and cart them off. Find a place that will use them to recycle instead of disposing them in the dump.

We have place here that takes any landscape debris free as recycle landfill.

Good luck!

Shelley
08-02-2008, 11:45 AM
OK FG ...and I thought I would never have a question for you on this but here goes and try not to laugh

2 Christmases ago my DH bought a pointsetta. Call him crazy but he just could not throw it away when chritmas was done...(I think he got attached to it he calls it Pointy).

Fast forward to today. Dang thing is still hhere and hanging on, still has a clump of red leaves but the others are all green. Recently the remaining red are falling off.

Is it time to let it go? Will it bloom red again?

Even DH is wondering if it's Pointy's time.

Av8rgirl
08-02-2008, 11:52 AM
OK FG ...and I thought I would never have a question for you on this but here goes and try not to laugh

2 Christmases ago my DH bought a pointsetta. Call him crazy but he just could not throw it away when chritmas was done...(I think he got attached to it he calls it Pointy).

Fast forward to today. Dang thing is still hhere and hanging on, still has a clump of red leaves but the others are all green. Recently the remaining red are falling off.

Is it time to let it go? Will it bloom red again?

Even DH is wondering if it's Pointy's time.

Yes, it will reflower again if you take care of it properly.

The red leaves are actually the flower bracts or leaves. It just needs a little TLC.

Here's a link to the Univ of Ill Extension website for information on how to get it to bloom for Christmas this year.

http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/poinsettia/reflowering.html

Pointy is not lost!!! :D

Shelley
08-02-2008, 11:55 AM
OMG thank you I think he will cry tears of joy.

I think he may love that thing more than me...he waters it more than he feeds me...hey something you tooo have on common...not feeding me.

Av8rgirl
08-02-2008, 12:07 PM
OMG thank you I think he will cry tears of joy.

I think he may love that thing more than me...he waters it more than he feeds me...hey something you tooo have on common...not feeding me.

Maybe we should meet! I need to make a trip down that way....should go see Cabana Boy in San Diego...he will feed you! :p

Shelley
08-02-2008, 12:54 PM
Hehehe...DH is a better driver than you though!

Yay Cabana boy! When might you come? Before or after W-A-L-E-Z (proper pronunciation for Antelope :D)

Av8rgirl
08-02-2008, 03:38 PM
Hehehe...DH is a better driver than you though!

Yay Cabana boy! When might you come? Before or after W-A-L-E-Z (proper pronunciation for Antelope :D)

I am thinking before, but it will depend on a couple of landscaping jobs.


YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

megveg
08-02-2008, 04:10 PM
first post in this wonderful thread but I have a question about tomato blossom end rot.

My dad bought an acre and a half of woods behind out house and turned it into a garden MECCA haha.

he has 157 brandywine tomato plants, plum tomatos, pole beans, zucchini, squash, cucumbers, peppers, lettuce, brussel sprouts, corn and tons of more stuff.

Some tomatoes are starting to ripen and when dad picks them, they usually have a black, hole like indent that ruins the whole tomato. We figured out it was blossom end rot but we have no idea how to fix it. My dad is a strictly organic farmer (cow manure, egg shells the whole works) so were trying to find an organic solution to the problem rather then spray with gross stuff.


any ideas?

Av8rgirl
08-02-2008, 06:06 PM
first post in this wonderful thread but I have a question about tomato blossom end rot.

My dad bought an acre and a half of woods behind out house and turned it into a garden MECCA haha.

he has 157 brandywine tomato plants, plum tomatos, pole beans, zucchini, squash, cucumbers, peppers, lettuce, brussel sprouts, corn and tons of more stuff.

Some tomatoes are starting to ripen and when dad picks them, they usually have a black, hole like indent that ruins the whole tomato. We figured out it was blossom end rot but we have no idea how to fix it. My dad is a strictly organic farmer (cow manure, egg shells the whole works) so were trying to find an organic solution to the problem rather then spray with gross stuff.


any ideas?

The problem lies with the fact that the ground is probably too wet. It's not an unsolvable problem.

Here's a good organic website with a solution to your problem. Not just for the tomatoes, but other veggies as well.

http://www.veggiegardeningtips.com/tomato-blossom-end-rot/

megveg
08-02-2008, 06:18 PM
The problem lies with the fact that the ground is probably too wet. It's not an unsolvable problem.

Here's a good organic website with a solution to your problem. Not just for the tomatoes, but other veggies as well.

http://www.veggiegardeningtips.com/tomato-blossom-end-rot/

we have had an INSANE amount of downpours (almost daily!) and there really hasnt been to many very dry days inbetween.

Av8rgirl
08-02-2008, 06:27 PM
we have had an INSANE amount of downpours (almost daily!) and there really hasnt been to many very dry days inbetween.

Hopefully, this website will give you some helpful hints. ;)

hollym
08-04-2008, 09:22 AM
We have a bumper crop of tomatoes, but they won't ripen. What's up? They are in a west facing garden. I'm wondering if they aren't getting enough sun during the heat of the day. What can we do?

Av8rgirl
08-04-2008, 09:31 AM
We have a bumper crop of tomatoes, but they won't ripen. What's up? They are in a west facing garden. I'm wondering if they aren't getting enough sun during the heat of the day. What can we do?

From what I've read in one of my veggie books, too much heat and too much water causes them not to ripen as fast as they would under normal circumstances. Cut back the water just a little bit and be patient. They will ripen.

Or if you want ripe tomatoes now, pick off a couple, put them in a brown paper bag, and this will quicken the process. You will have nice ripe tomatoes in a couple of days.

Alffe
08-11-2008, 03:46 AM
some critter planted a kernel of corn in my herb garden and I don't have the heart to pull it up....it's got on small ear of corn now. And those yellow peppers are getting longer...still haven't tasted one!

Cheryl I posted about a vinyard in the sleepless thread at sos...silly place to put it as you are gonne miss it! I must go down there and sneak a picture of it! Unbelievable around here.

Av8rgirl
08-11-2008, 01:03 PM
some critter planted a kernel of corn in my herb garden and I don't have the heart to pull it up....it's got on small ear of corn now. And those yellow peppers are getting longer...still haven't tasted one!

Cheryl I posted about a vinyard in the sleepless thread at sos...silly place to put it as you are gonne miss it! I must go down there and sneak a picture of it! Unbelievable around here.

I think you are going to love the peppers. And gee, what a surprise with the corn!

We have a lot of vineyards around here. Idaho has some great wines!

http://www.idahowines.org/

Eagle Knoll Winery is about 3 miles down the road from me. We've done some wedding receptions there (I work part time for a florist). There's also a golf course there. It's a nice place.

Sawtooth has some great wines.

I've sent out some nice gift baskets to clients with Idaho products with local wines and I do have some in my collection.

I've personally never put in a vineyard as they are more of a large scale agricultural operation. I did study about them in school. Quit the operation. Lots of work. I have enough just keeping up with the peach trees I have in my yard and that doesn't count the over 450 trees I have in my nursery, so I don't need a vineyard. But maybe that's something I could do once I get rid of all the trees!! Hmmmm....something to think about!

Victor H
10-30-2008, 07:05 PM
Cheryl,

My wife and my mother in law were both greeted by their flowers when they entered their room at the Pasadena Hilton.

THAY LOOOOVE THEM !!!!:)

Thank you so much for taking care of them for me.:winky:

-Vic

Av8rgirl
10-30-2008, 07:34 PM
Cheryl,

My wife and my mother in law were both greeted by their flowers when they entered their room at the Pasadena Hilton.

THAY LOOOOVE THEM !!!!:)

Thank you so much for taking care of them for me.:winky:

-Vic

Thanks for using our website Vic! And thanks for thinking of me! I am so glad they liked what they received!!!

Thank YOU.

hollym
11-07-2008, 03:18 PM
I have a variegated weigelia that looks all misshapen due to a Round Up mishap with an 8 year old who thought he was watering it. The bush survived, but we had to clip off all of the dead stuff. Can I just hard prune it all the way down for the winter and hope it will come back in the correct shape next spring?

Av8rgirl
11-07-2008, 03:47 PM
I have a variegated weigelia that looks all misshapen due to a Round Up mishap with an 8 year old who thought he was watering it. The bush survived, but we had to clip off all of the dead stuff. Can I just hard prune it all the way down for the winter and hope it will come back in the correct shape next spring?

You bet! It's considered a "woody" plant so it should do just fine in the spring. Prune it back to about 5" and be sure to fertilize it in the early spring.

braingonebad
02-19-2009, 07:47 AM
Well, the seed and bulb catalogues are rolling in and we're still enjoying the tomatoes and peppers we put up from last year's garden.

:)

Hard to believe, but spring will come someday. Are the rest of you thinking about what you're going to do this year? I can't wait till the ground thaws.

mrsD
02-19-2009, 08:06 AM
Getting ready for my seeds! I bought 3 varieties of small zinnias...going to try them instead of gazanias in my containers.

I bought 3 colors from Park
Fire
orange
white

25 seeds each. I'll start them indoors in late March or early April.

Gotta get my lights ready first. Haven't done indoors in a while :o

ewizabeth
02-19-2009, 08:52 AM
I ordered a bunch of seeds from Burpee this year: tomatoes, bell peppers, cucumber, impatiens, purple wave petunia, moonflower... Our youngest son knows the botany professor from NIU. He's going to get some custom hybrid tomato plants just for our area!

I'm planning on doing mostly container gardening this year unless the boys want to remove the sod from my old garden patch and we can put extra tomatoes out there.

I think most of the rabbits are gone due to the growing hawk population in our area. I only saw one rabbit this winter and we normally have at least three of them living under our deck even in the cold weather.

mrsD
02-19-2009, 09:26 AM
I'd like to add....

I found many more varieties on the WEBSITE of Park's compared to the catalog.

So you all might want to look online too. They have more than
they illustrate in the catalogs because of costs, I think.

There are some seed deals on Ebay. Some are very inexpensive.
But not all of them are. So look there too.
I bought some bulk wildflower Oxeye daisies and black eyed susans for very very little money. I am going to sow these where the city destroyed the little garden I do on their property, fixing our water mains last year.

But some of the Ebay cultivars were actually more than Park seed! So look around before buying!

Ebay was my only source of Lychnis (rose campion) and Silene, which I like to naturalize too. The big seed companies don't carry either.

braingonebad
03-06-2009, 09:25 AM
Mrs D, have you ever sprouted hibiscus seeds? I gathered seed from my Disco Belles Hibiscus (hardy) and I'd love to try growing them. Any tips?

Also, I ordered a set of 5 hardy hibiscus in pinks, reds and a white. These are supposed to go (from smallest) about 4' to (tallest) 5 or 6'! YAY! Gonna plant them in the new bed toward the side of the road where people walk past all the time.

;)

I was thinking of underplanting with either snapdragons or petunias.

mrsD
03-06-2009, 09:58 AM
Mrs D, have you ever sprouted hibiscus seeds? I gathered seed from my Disco Belles Hibiscus (hardy) and I'd love to try growing them. Any tips?

Also, I ordered a set of 5 hardy hibiscus in pinks, reds and a white. These are supposed to go (from smallest) about 4' to (tallest) 5 or 6'! YAY! Gonna plant them in the new bed toward the side of the road where people walk past all the time.

;)

I was thinking of underplanting with either snapdragons or petunias.

I had to look this one up.

It appears that the seed coat on these seeds is thick.
I found some gardeners on the net and they recommend:
1) soak overnight in water then push into your seed starting mix and cover. 2-3 weeks.

OR
2) lightly sandpaper with very fine sandpaper, the outer coat and do the same.

If you do not prepare the seed, it can take 2 to 3 months to
germinate.

Transplant when there are 4 true leaves.

This is what Thompson Morgan says to do:
http://www.tmseeds.com/product/6715.html

I've never done them, but I have done other seeds with tough coats. Daylily is one example. Iris is another.

There is a way to overwinter the seeds outside, but I think that time has passed.

braingonebad
03-14-2009, 10:16 AM
Thanks! I'll let you know how I do. I'm not very good w/ seeds though, so it'll be a major victory if anything happens.

:p

With daylilies, I just dry the seeds on a shelf in the shed and plant them right in the flower bed. I started with 3 dl's, now I have 9. About half are hybreds - which is easy to do - just rub a flower from one plant onto the flower from another, then mark that flower and let it go to seed. (I tie a string loosely around the stem)

BTW, my crocus are blooming!

I see tulip, daff and hyacinth leaves. Johnny jump ups, tick seed, snapdragons and hollyhocks are turning green.

gardengrl
03-14-2009, 10:46 AM
Ohhh, I'm going to love it here!!! Thanks for this thread, this is my passion! So so so excited, like a silly little kid!
I tell my DH, don't buy me jewelry, make-up, kitchen stuff, for my birthday....just buy me pallets of rock, dirt, & plants.

I do have one question on the dang roses....I live in the sandhills of NC. NOTHING but sand. I have planted quite a few roses, none do good. I have tried planting directly into the sand, also amending it with organic matter, all the way to opening up a 40lb bag of compost garden soil & poking holes into it at the bottom, bury the whole bag & plant in that...But the BEST roses I have are the ones I accidently left in their pot, inside a rubber container that is filled with rainwater Most the time?? Those are some "wet feet"

Why? Will this last? It's been 2 years now & plan on leaving it there as a test!

mrsD
03-14-2009, 12:53 PM
I grow in containers on vacation because the rocks there eat up any soil I put down. So I grow in containers.

Containers or at least a raised bed may help.
Not only water filters away in sand. FOOD/nutrients do too, and roses are heavy feeders! Too much nitrogen (first number) makes for bushiness and fewer flowers. Not enough phosphate slows blooms too(middle number).

I can't grow roses here because I don't have much sun.
So maybe some rose growers will show up here.

braingonebad
03-15-2009, 09:54 AM
Roses are tougher than gardeners think. I have all but two of the many I've planted in 20 yrs.

:eek:

Some, I've even tried to kill off, lol. They're still here.

I'd say this, if it's alive in a container, just change her soil when she goes dormant in the late fall every other year or so. When you do, look for mushy roots and trim those off if there are any.

You'll also have a chance to rid her of any pests by rinsing off the roots. You may want to give her a larger container as she gets bigger. A 5 gal paint bucket should do, or ask at a bakery if they have buckets that size. Drill a few holes and there you go.

You should see what I have stuff growing in, lol. My tropical hibiscus tree is still in that plastic 2 gallon thing it came in 2 yrs ago. I put that in an antique bucket and she's trying to bloom now, in my bird room.

mrsD
03-15-2009, 10:16 AM
growing in sand can be done. I have a front garden (pictures in my album) that is 90% sand.

One trains the roots of the plants to go DOWN so that they don't dry out so fast. I had to move some when we had the big dig up of the street last spring. I had a saponaria plant that I had to move and it was over 12 inches down!

If you sprinkle often but not water deeply every few days, the roots stay at the top and then when the sand dries out, the plant suffers.

So training does take some initial time but can pay off in very dry areas. That garden in the pics is below 100yr old oaks. And I was told by a garden "expert" that growing anything under oaks is impossible--- and I am doing it by following simple logic.
water correctly
feed appropriately
weed when necessary
have adequate light for the right plant

These are the only tricks I use. And I have failures, and just move on.

I think container gardening is the way to go for many things under certain situations. I do it up North and a little bit here.
In containers you can mix in SoilMoist granules and get up to 5 to 7 days between watering! You can use the new pelleted long acting fertilizers too..they are great for feeding. Some of the new fancy (if you have the money) containers are SELF watering now.
I like the big resin urns that Costco has now, for about $20.
I have 3 now, and they work really well and look nice (see my album pics).

gardengrl
03-15-2009, 10:59 AM
Being in the Sandhills is a challenge. The weather patterns changing does not help. We just upgraded from a zone 7 to an 8....This so far has worked for me, it does sound weird, but it works. I use plastic bags, the ones from food shopping. I dig the hole much larger than needed, line with these crumpled up bags, cover with the original sand & then add compost & the plant. I'm not worried about root rot as the roots seem to find their way thru just fine. Plus less leeching of nutrients thru the sand. I have only been here for 5-6 years now so I don't know long term...But for now it seems to work.

Also on the cheap side are those heavy plastic storage containers at Walmart & such. I drill several holes in the bottom, then completely bury the container. It's not hard because it's all sand. Not a rock or pebble to be found! This is also good if you have Voles! {little, evil, hungry,monsters!}

mrsD
03-15-2009, 11:09 AM
burying containers did not work for me. We get really hard
freezes, and they just push up --frost heave.

Where you are you can get away with that. It is a good idea if you don't get totally frozen ground like we do.

braingonebad
03-16-2009, 03:34 PM
Mrs D - Gardengirl is from the Carolina's (from what the line under her avatar says).

So I guess they don't get the freeze we get up here. But my brother - who lives near me, not far south of lake Erie, has a couple plants buried in container. In those beds, they keep them from heaving by covering with rock for mulch.

I think as long as the dirt and cover are heavy enough, you can get away with it. The planter has holes too, and if the plant's roots get though and grab outside dirt, that'll help.

You are so right about the Water Grabber stuff. All potted plants should have that. Hyponex's soil has that plus slow release food built in. I used that in my nail keg palnters - it was worth the extra couple bucks.

I can't believe all the stuff that's coming up already. Something else every time I look. Today, I see iris turning green, mullien, campanula, columbine, false sunflowers and fresh growth on the lavender.

:)

mrsD
03-18-2009, 06:54 AM
yeah... I have crocuses and snowdrops.

We put out the 12-12-12 on the some of the beds. Hubby has
been raking oak leaves all week so far. We've had nice weather.

This week I am starting some perennial seeds.(in the house under lights).

I am so glad we are on the way out of winter finally! WHEW!

hollym
03-19-2009, 12:38 PM
I just realized I never hard pruned my butterfly bush in the fall. Should I just cut it down now? I'm pretty sure it grows new branches every spring.

ewizabeth
03-19-2009, 03:37 PM
Hi all,

I have a Jackmanii clematis that does well in our backyard. I've always cut it down to ground level in early spring and it comes back full by midsummer. Would it work to just leave the old vines up? Will they all come to life again? Or will some of them be dead? Will it grow larger if I do it this way? Thanks in advance. :)

cindyd
03-20-2009, 11:23 PM
Ohhh, I'm going to love it here!!! Thanks for this thread, this is my passion! So so so excited, like a silly little kid!
I tell my DH, don't buy me jewelry, make-up, kitchen stuff, for my birthday....just buy me pallets of rock, dirt, & plants.

I do have one question on the dang roses....I live in the sandhills of NC. NOTHING but sand. I have planted quite a few roses, none do good. I have tried planting directly into the sand, also amending it with organic matter, all the way to opening up a 40lb bag of compost garden soil & poking holes into it at the bottom, bury the whole bag & plant in that...But the BEST roses I have are the ones I accidently left in their pot, inside a rubber container that is filled with rainwater Most the time?? Those are some "wet feet"

Why? Will this last? It's been 2 years now & plan on leaving it there as a test!

Dear Gardengrl, Go on-line and type planting roses in sand. There are many websites on the subject. Maybe there are only certain varieties that do well in sand. Check it out, and happy planting!

braingonebad
03-25-2009, 10:16 AM
Hi all,

I have a Jackmanii clematis that does well in our backyard. I've always cut it down to ground level in early spring and it comes back full by midsummer. Would it work to just leave the old vines up? Will they all come to life again? Or will some of them be dead? Will it grow larger if I do it this way? Thanks in advance. :)


I read somewhere that there are three types of clematis, and so also three ways to trim. Unfortunately, it did not give specific names - like Jackmanii - it just described a bit about how to tell where to cut.



I do not recall any of these plants needing to be cut all the way to the ground, and you may be causing yours to use more energy to regrow than necessary.

I'm still new at clematis, so I can't be of more help, sorry. I just wait till they leaf up and trim off the dead stuff.

Av8rgirl
04-12-2009, 02:12 PM
I just realized I never hard pruned my butterfly bush in the fall. Should I just cut it down now? I'm pretty sure it grows new branches every spring.

The best way, and most efficient, to prune and keep a butterfly bush looking nice is to cut in back almost to the ground every spring. You can use lopers or a chain saw depending on how large the limbs are.

It blooms on new wood every year.

Av8rgirl
04-12-2009, 02:21 PM
Hi all,

I have a Jackmanii clematis that does well in our backyard. I've always cut it down to ground level in early spring and it comes back full by midsummer. Would it work to just leave the old vines up? Will they all come to life again? Or will some of them be dead? Will it grow larger if I do it this way? Thanks in advance. :)

Hi Wiz!

Brain is correct, there are three categories of Clematis based on how to prune them. I advise clients to keep the tags that come with them so they know which ones need to be pruned how; however you are not likely to kill them if they are not pruned properly as they are very resilient!

The Jackmanii is a summer bloomer and also blooms on new wood. Therefore, it should be pruned back each year so you will have better blooms. However, if you want it to grow taller each year, don't cut it back as far as you did the year before.

Here's a good website that explains the 3 categories of clematis.

http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/clematis/2002095824028038.html

ewizabeth
04-13-2009, 09:53 AM
Thanks Cheryl and Brain, :)

I cut it back to about 12 inches. Last spring I divided it to put in another part of the yard. That plant was trimmed back by the rabbits over the winter. It has growth already too.

Av8rgirl
04-15-2009, 10:00 AM
Thanks Cheryl and Brain, :)

I cut it back to about 12 inches. Last spring I divided it to put in another part of the yard. That plant was trimmed back by the rabbits over the winter. It has growth already too.

Jackmanii is one of my favorites. I wish I had a place in my yard to plant them so I could see them. I just did a landscape design for a friend and one entire fence line off their patio was several different colors of clematis. I can hardly wait for them to bloom!

Twinkletoes
04-16-2009, 11:01 PM
I am such a novice at gardening. My DH has always taken care of the yard. But we just moved and the yard is huge! There is so much to be done and I know it will take years to get it in shape, but I thought it would be nice to start with some flowerbeds.

I just jumped the gun on spring and spent a lot of $$$ at WalMart on several varieties. If I list their names, will you tell me which ones I Don't need to worry about planting too early? I know pansies are very resilient, and I bought lots of them and violas.

But I don't know about these:


Cannulas
Phalaris (grassy bush thing)
Anemone
Petunias
Alyssium


I'm guessing the hyacinths will be okay in the cold, as they are from bulbs? They are about 8-10 inches tall.

It just won't warm up here!!! :confused: It actually started to snow when we were loading this stuff in the truck, lol.

But this weekend should be nice. BTW, I know FlyGirl knows I'm in central Utah, but maybe the rest of you gardeners don't.

Twinkletoes
04-16-2009, 11:11 PM
One more question. We have a lovely view of the nearby mountains from our back patio, except there is a construction company that parks their unattractive vehicles a few hundred yards away.

We need something that will grow 10-15 feet high along a stretch of about 50 feet of fence. That way we won't have to look at the road graders, but we can still see the mountains. The fence isn't particularly sturdy, but it does keep the neighbor's horses from getting into the yard.

Thanks for any suggestions.

mrsD
04-17-2009, 08:04 AM
One more question. We have a lovely view of the nearby mountains from our back patio, except there is a construction company that parks their unattractive vehicles a few hundred yards away.

We need something that will grow 10-15 feet high along a stretch of about 50 feet of fence. That way we won't have to look at the road graders, but we can still see the mountains. The fence isn't particularly sturdy, but it does keep the neighbor's horses from getting into the yard.

Thanks for any suggestions.

You could try sweet peas (there are perennial types). I'm starting some from seed this spring in fact.

Also Morning glorys are easy from seed. And there are the
old standby Hollyhocks.

Most really tall flowering plants you would probably have to do from seed. Clematis is tricky I think.

But there are ivy's, and other vines like that. Those would be available in stores. If this is in full sun? Try some green beans!

You could do bushes in front of the fence... upright cedars are pretty elegant (but they would cost more money in the beginning.)

What are your watering potentials there? Can you reach with a hose? If you cannot water, you'd have to have something that likes dry conditions. I'd consider light and water first, then move on to the other choices based on those.

Twinkletoes
04-17-2009, 12:28 PM
You could try sweet peas (there are perennial types). I'm starting some from seed this spring in fact.

Also Morning glorys are easy from seed. And there are the
old standby Hollyhocks.

Most really tall flowering plants you would probably have to do from seed. Clematis is tricky I think.

But there are ivy's, and other vines like that. Those would be available in stores. If this is in full sun? Try some green beans!

You could do bushes in front of the fence... upright cedars are pretty elegant (but they would cost more money in the beginning.)

What are your watering potentials there? Can you reach with a hose? If you cannot water, you'd have to have something that likes dry conditions. I'd consider light and water first, then move on to the other choices based on those.


Hmmm, I hadn't thought about cedars. Green beans, lol! The fence is only about 4' high. Maybe some corn! ;)

Yes, it is full sun and yes, we can drag a hose.

If I can figure out how to do it, I'll post a "before" picture.

braingonebad
04-20-2009, 08:57 AM
Hmmm, I hadn't thought about cedars. Green beans, lol! The fence is only about 4' high. Maybe some corn! ;)

Yes, it is full sun and yes, we can drag a hose.

If I can figure out how to do it, I'll post a "before" picture.

Hollyhocks or sunflowers will grow higher than your 4' fence, and you can stake if needed. The morning glory or perennial sweet peas sound good to cover the fence itself.

My hollyhocks get about5-6 ft high, but check what kind of sunflowers, as they vary in height depending on the kind you get. Some get 12-15 ft high.

I find Lowe's and Menard's are good for inexpensive trees and shrubs, if you want to go that route. I'm partial to purple sand cherry's, as they bloom in the spring and have red/purple foliage all summer/fall. They grow fairly quick, not too large, nice and graceful.

It's nice to get something that's already 4-5 ft high or better.

gardengrl
04-20-2009, 12:33 PM
Hmmm, I hadn't thought about cedars. Green beans, lol! The fence is only about 4' high. Maybe some corn! ;)

Yes, it is full sun and yes, we can drag a hose.

If I can figure out how to do it, I'll post a "before" picture.

Hiya Twink! I haven't been able to get on the pc lately, but I'm still here:D

Did you consider Bamboo? There are many to choose from & in your climate I do not believe they are likely to run rampard?? I planted a 30' x 2' living fence of the "Black Bamboo". It will take a few years to establish itself but then will go wild on me here in the south...so I had to dig in a barrier 3' down also. Mine is growing at about 15' but even the taller ones will stop growing at the point they are cut from & then produce side shoots to fill in.

Another idea...raised beds...that way you can plant even shorter growing plants.

Please DO show before & afters pics!:D

Twinkletoes
04-20-2009, 02:12 PM
Hehe! I hang out too much at Home Depot! I forgot to use my 10% off discount coupon Saturday and I'm still mad!

I bought some brick edging for a flowerbed and some more plants. Still haven't planted any! (Too cold). We keep them in our garage and open the door when the afternoon sun is shining.

I have a landscaper coming tomorrow to have a look and then draw up some plans. We need some garden walls here and there because of a slope.

Thanks for your suggestions. I'll be back with more questions, I'm sure!

braingonebad
05-18-2009, 08:51 AM
Thanks Cheryl and Brain, :)

I cut it back to about 12 inches. Last spring I divided it to put in another part of the yard. That plant was trimmed back by the rabbits over the winter. It has growth already too.


Okay, I didn't know you could divide them. Cool!

Twink - You might want to figure out your zone and *last frost* before you put a bunch of ploants in. It's likely okay by now, but I saw your posts were in April.

You can check online or in mags with mail order companies for this info, or luck out at Home Depot. Some of those people, not all of them, do garden and know their stuff.

I usually ask serious garden questions at a nursery, not a big store, and get better results.

OR ask a neighbor with a great yard. Real gardeners love to help you out.

I just don't wanna see you loose your plants and hard work to a cold snap - been there, done that.

I'm moving from zone 5 to zone 9, so I'm a novice all over again.

Twinkletoes
05-24-2009, 05:52 PM
Thanks Brain, et al, for your suggestions. And thanks, Cheryl, for the helpful PM (typed one-handed!).

Now that the weather is nice and warm, I did get most of 'em planted. Then I bought some more and moved them around. Then I decided the poor lil (existing) daffodils needed some sun, so moved the pansies around (again) to make room.

Then last night we bought some Morefor my shady flowerbed. I've never gardened in my whole life, and I just can't get enough flowers! The nice thing about our new yard is the 2 dozen or so mature trees, so I can work in shade much of the time.

My Dad planted a yellow rosebush a few years ago -- it must have 300 or 400 blooms on it. I can't help but think of him whenever I see it. Unfortunately, it will have to be moved to make way for DH's future carport to park his truck. (truckport?) Any tips on moving a stickery rosebush?

braingonebad
05-26-2009, 06:08 PM
Wait till it's done blooming, trim it back, and WEAR PROTECTION! LOL....

:eek:


You're supposed to leave a pile of loosened dirt - an upside down cone shape - in the hole and set the rose's roots on that. Be sure not to plant deeper than the *heart*. You'll notice the thickest part of the trunk, it's almost a ball or lump - that's the heart.

Right at the top of the trunk, where that gets thick, leave some of that out of the dirt - I leave an inch or two exposed, make sure the soft roots are in the dirt.

Than tamp it in and water/feed like any other plant.

I've moved almost all my roses and they do fine. Only problem - usually, the root will grow back, and you wind up with some wild rose you don't want, because they're all grafts these days...

I'm trying to find an herbicide that'll kill off about 6 of that kind of rose right now.

:rolleyes:

Round Up for poison Ivy, you think?



now you know why roses symbolize love, cuz they have a heart.

braingonebad
06-20-2009, 07:33 PM
Well, the flowers are doing well, blooming nice and on time. But the weather - cloudy, no rain until last two days, cooler than usual - seems to be putting the veggies behind schedule.

There are peppers on - sweet hungies. But just now getting buds on the tomatoes and the plants are small. The cukes barely grew. The lettuce is almost ready to seed, so I know the other stuff is not on course.

:(

megveg
06-27-2009, 02:36 PM
Hello! I'm new to this whole gardening thing and was wondering some things :)

I want to start a small garden. Not food of any sort because my dad has a half acre of tomato plants peppers squash and other edibles, but some nice flowers that I could have to look at or read by :)

I live in Massachusetts and know nothing other than frost is bad for plants. My downstairs neighbor collaborates on the garden with my dad and has some exotic flowers from costa rice but they die after 1 season.


I was hoping to plant some annuals that will spring up every year and are easy to maintain. Being in MA our soil is very rocky and lacking nutrients and the spot I want to plant in is shady and already has a bunch of shrubs and things around it.

My mom once had a bleeding heart plant that did well in the spot that I picked (the poor plant was mowed over and killed by my brother :/) so maybe I could get one of those since it thrived so well in that spot.

I need some ideas for shade loving annuals and easy to maintain (won't be over grown) and have some pretty flowers. If anyone has any suggestions please feel free :)

Thanks :)

mrsD
06-29-2009, 08:31 AM
Hello! I'm new to this whole gardening thing and was wondering some things :)

I want to start a small garden. Not food of any sort because my dad has a half acre of tomato plants peppers squash and other edibles, but some nice flowers that I could have to look at or read by :)

I live in Massachusetts and know nothing other than frost is bad for plants. My downstairs neighbor collaborates on the garden with my dad and has some exotic flowers from costa rice but they die after 1 season.


I was hoping to plant some annuals that will spring up every year and are easy to maintain. Being in MA our soil is very rocky and lacking nutrients and the spot I want to plant in is shady and already has a bunch of shrubs and things around it.

My mom once had a bleeding heart plant that did well in the spot that I picked (the poor plant was mowed over and killed by my brother :/) so maybe I could get one of those since it thrived so well in that spot.

I need some ideas for shade loving annuals and easy to maintain (won't be over grown) and have some pretty flowers. If anyone has any suggestions please feel free :)

Thanks :)

I think you mean perennials, which come back after winters?

It is really hard to give advice generally without seeing the location. If the area gets 1/2 day sun, you could put in some of the new day lilies that continuously bloom all summer. Stella D'oro is one variety..dwarf and cute.

Annuals don't come back in your Zone, unless they reseed.
Counting on seeds doesn't work well, because some don't come back true to form. Petunias are like this...they will reseed but lose their colors and change to a more generic flower.

I would sign up for Park's seed catalog, and also Thompson Morgan. They have websites too, with lots of information and
pictures of flowers along with where to put them for best results.

There is a lot of failure in gardening. So don't get discouraged. Just move on.

Perennials like daisies and black eyed susans are easy to do too, but you need some sun for them as well. At this time nurseries may not have alot of stock left, esp for annuals. Sometimes they put stuff up on sale to get rid of it too. I go to a seasonal guy who sets up shop on a vacant lot nearby and he has tremendous bargains, if you know what you want etc.

Reading the catalogs helps you in the end to choose what you like and what will like the spot you are intending to fill. ;)

braingonebad
07-05-2009, 08:23 AM
Good advice from Mrs D.

I love catalogues for the info and inspiration. Also if you have a really good local nursery, the better local gardeners will know about it. Go there and ask questions.

I've been gardening over 20 yrs, and have found local-grown plants often do better than ordered ones. We have a lot of nurseries around, but I'll pay more at the one where they propagate the local plants - it's been here forever.

And if you get chummy with neighbors, you'd be surprised who's willing to share sprouts.

;)

Also like Mrs D said, don't let the failures get you down. I lose plants every year. It's part of the challenge. And then you really feel triumphant sometimes, when you get them to thrive.

It's all part of the game.

My sis asked me why I did so well at this. I told her two rules in my garden -

1) if I like it it's a flower, if not it's a weed.

2) pull the dead stuff out before anyone else sees it. Then you always look like you have a green thumb.

Keep on trying with things too - I moved my Red Hot Poker, which is supposed to be really easy to grow - every year for the 5 yrs I've had it. Finally, it's blooming.

Some things I have that might work for you - Toad lily, turtleheads and monk's hood, maybe jupiter's beard. Bulbs might work.

I think rhodedendrons and azaleas like acid soil, but they may need more light.

The shrubs will be a challenge because they contribute to the acidity of the soil. But I planted purple coneflowers, forget-me-nots and hollyhocks on an acid bed where we just took out shrubs and they are doing well.

Aunt Bean
12-31-2009, 12:23 PM
Hi. Do you know anything about fava beans (where in the country are you located?) I am in TN and our favas were not "bit" until 24 degrees. I read somewhere on the net that they will come back up from the roots when the weather warms up. I don't know wether to cut the wilted plants off or not, there are still some greenish leaves and a feeling of suspended animation in the plants. I wonder if I cut them off if the cold rains & snow would ruin the roots? Anyway, I am thinking about leaving them just the way they are to see what happens next. Any ideas?? Aunt Bean

braingonebad
02-24-2010, 08:46 AM
Hi. Do you know anything about fava beans (where in the country are you located?) I am in TN and our favas were not "bit" until 24 degrees. I read somewhere on the net that they will come back up from the roots when the weather warms up. I don't know wether to cut the wilted plants off or not, there are still some greenish leaves and a feeling of suspended animation in the plants. I wonder if I cut them off if the cold rains & snow would ruin the roots? Anyway, I am thinking about leaving them just the way they are to see what happens next. Any ideas?? Aunt Bean

Sorry I didn't see your post till just now! I don't know a thing about fava beans. But I hear you are having a hard winter down there - snow, cold and what all.

I leave almost everything as is until spring - for the reason you mention. It adds insulation for the roots. I'll know in spring what to cut off. Also, it provides habitat and maybe food for wildlife, and the rotting vegetation feeds the plants.

Mt theory is whatever that plant took out of the ground is in the plant. If you put the dead plant back in the ground, it is just the right fertilizer.

And also, you end up removing the least waste from your garden.

I hope the harsh winter did not do too much damage to your garden. Let us know.

Kitt
02-24-2010, 09:00 AM
Found this on fava beans. Maybe you already know it.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vicia_faba

Interesting.

braingonebad
02-25-2010, 08:29 AM
Wow, who knew? Thanks!